You just rode what you think is the best wave of your life. You’re paddling back to the line up, screaming yew! with a huge grin on your face. Your stoke is high and you’re ready to catch another wave, then you commit a cardinal sin of surfing.
The dude (or chick) sitting there looks at you and shakes their head to then look out to the horizon, scouting out their next wave. Finally you realize–
No One Cares That You Surf
It’s astonishing–I know. It took me a while to grasp this concept as well. Let’s think about this for a minute.
Did you really expect everyone in the lineup to virtually stop paddling and give up on catching the other waves in the set to watch you make a couple mediocre turns (you’re not on the ASP World Tour for a reason). You’re going to be heart broken if that’s the way you think because I’ve yet to see anyone do any of that.
The truth of the matter is that surfing’s a very selfish lifestyle (it’s not a sport) and surfers are very selfish human beings. We spend our time working at a job that allows us to take time off to travel to distant lands that produce waves for us to surf for a few mere seconds. While we’re at home, we’re checking the swell charts and planning our lives around the next swell to once again surf some waves for a few mere seconds. At times we even find that it’s worth is to sacrifice relationships to find our perfect wave.
To even have the slightest inclination that someone willing to spend thousands of dollars on a surf trip and sacrifice relationships is watching you surf is completely ludicrous. The fact is that they’re out in the lineup wanting to do the same thing as you, get away from the stresses of life and catch some waves. If someone by some chance does see your wave and pays you a compliment, a humble–thank you— is all that’s needed. Better yet, follow up that thank you with a–now it’s your turn to grab a wave–that’ll go a long wave with that person and others in the lineup.
Surfing’s about being at peace with oneself through being one with the wave. Hard to find that inner peace with some kook screaming–did you see that? The answer will almost always be–NO–because no one cares that you surf.
Photo Credit: Adam FrickePin It